November 2019
The train journey from Tel Aviv may only last an hour, but stepping out of Jerusalem’s main train station, one cannot help but feel that they have traveled to a different part of the world altogether.
Gone are the long, impressive boulevards, the lively, tourist beaches and the laid-back vibe offered by the stylishly good-looking crowds of the capital. In their place stands a city of contrasts, where new and modern meets old and historical. On one street you’ll find upmarket shops and classy restaurants, while on another there are traditional markets and street vendors that seem to have stood there for centuries. Add to that the soundtrack of the big-bearded, Hasidic Jews busking on street corners and you may begin to get an idea.
Though the atmosphere is undoubtedly a far cry from Israel’s technologically-advanced, modern capital, Jerusalem’s city centre is still very much a happening place. As I begin the half-hour walk towards the old city, people around me rush about in all directions, flocking in and out of shops and cramming like sardines into the various bustling food markets along the way. The streets are heaving, as scores of pilgrims, some with their entire families in hand, make their way towards the walled city. Many wear their traditional tall, spodik hats and have their hair tied into sideburns, while others on their way to prayer have tallits draped over their bodies and wear the traditional Jewish skullcap; the kippah.
It’s Friday morning and in a few short hours, when sundown arrives, the scene in this very spot will be completely different. For around 24 hours, much of the city goes into a form of slumber, as shops and markets close down and public transport ceases to exist as Jews begin to celebrate the most important part of their week; the sabbath.
During this period, Observant Jews do not work and more than that, they do not drive cars, use electronic equipment of any kind or even cook. Instead, people focus on rest and worship and spend time with their families. The start of the 24-hour period is introduced with the lighting of candles, as most Jews attend synagogue in order to pray, before returning home for Shabbat dinner. On Saturday morning, most will again return to the synagogue for morning prayer and again, in the evening for the “Havdalah” service, which marks the end of Shabbat and the beginning of a new week.
But not every part of the city sleeps during Shabbat. A walk into the old city on a Friday afternoon is an experience in itself. There you can find the Western Wall, also commonly known as the Wailing Wall or Kotel in Hebrew. The wall is divided into two parts – for men and women – and receives thousands of visitors every year. Most come to recite spoken prayers or slip written ones into the cracks in the wall. Putting aside the firm security checks and metal detectors on arrival, the Western Wall is a great place to stand back and observe what is undoubtedly an anthropological event for those visiting the city for non-religious purposes.
There is something truly astounding in watching thousands of people, some in an almost trance-like state, simultaneously murmur prayers to themselves as they rock their bodies backwards and forwards and connect with their godly beliefs.
Beyond the Western Wall, is the Temple Mount itself. Considered the holiest site in the world for Jewish believers and simultaneously the third holiest for Muslims after Mecca and Medina, it is one of the most contested religious sites in the world and causes great tension between Jews and Muslims. Biblically, it was where Abraham offered his son, Isaac, as a sacrifice, while in Muslim tradition it is where the Prophet Mohammed made his “Night Journey” to the throne of God.
As things stand, Jews and Christians can visit the Temple Mount, but only at specific times and only as tourists; never for religious reasons or to pray. Moreover, only Muslims are permitted into the famously emblematic gold-topped Islamic shrine – The Dome of the Rock – or into the Al-Aqsa Mosque that stands just nearby.
Though the Sabbath itself is an undeniably incredible experience for those visiting the city, few will argue that it is at least partly a relief when it ends and normal service resumes all over Jerusalem. On Sunday morning therefore, with public transport back up and running, I take the 15-minute bus ride to the Jerusalem / Bethlehem turnstile. Crossing over is an extremely simple process and two minutes later, with minimal fuss, I find myself in Palestine. Just a short distance from the border crossing begins the Israeli West Bank barrier wall separating Israel and Palestine’s West Bank.
A few hundred metres down the road, you can also find the Walled Off Hotel. Opened in 2017 by UK street artist Banksy, The Walled Off was originally intended as a temporary, provocative piece of installation art, but has ended up being a hotel and museum that aims to educate visitors and highlight the problems between Israel and Palestine. Open to the public, the hotel overlooks the Israeli West Bank barrier and promises “the worst view in the world”. It includes a piano bar with several pieces of the artist’s work, as well as a museum highlighting the history of the region.
After the creation of the hotel, a part of the wall became a canvas for street artists from around the world to display their art and feelings about the political problems in the region, to protest human rights and to show solidarity. The wall, described by Israel as “a security fence”, but by Palestinians as an “apartheid”, “segregation”, “separation” or “annexation” wall, reaches as high as 8 meters and is one of the most contended issues in an ongoing dispute between the two nations that stretches back to 1947.
The current status quo between the two countries remains without doubt one of the most controversial and discussed political issues of the modern era and sadly, one that appears to be constantly moving further and further away from any potential solution. With Israeli Prime Minister, Benjamin Netanyahu on the one side and the “Islamic Resistance Movement” of Hamas on the other, it is difficult to fear anything but the worst regarding any potential future solution to the current heated climate.